When you're ready to redo your kitchen, there are a number of things you should consider so your investment in cost and time is done right. It's worthwhile to meet with a kitchen designer so you can maximize your space, your budget, and get enduring changes without skimping on what's important to you. If you do a remodel and don't include a feature that you didn't think about, you'll regret it. Understanding materials, care and maintenance, technology and even trends are important both short and long term.
In a typical kitchen remodel, regardless of whether the budget is small or large, your percentages for spending will look something like this:
8-10% Electrical & Plumbing
14-16% Appliances
16% Walls, ceilings, floors, doors and windows
29-30% Cabinets and hardware
10% Counters
22% Planning, design and installation
You should visit showcase homes, model homes, showrooms, and think about the pros and cons of your existing kitchen. You might find that you love specialty appliances like wine centers and pot fillers, but when you consider the cost, amount of use, and space required, they may not be worth the splurge. Some things that you might think are over-the-top but are value added in the long run are second sinks, finished cabinet ends and shelves and drawers on full extension glides. In the Carlsbad kitchen above, I was able to include a host of useful appliances, carefully placed and concealed for a luxurious end result. Every cabinet was detailed to provide maximum use of space and finished so they blended seamlessly with the furnishings in the adjacent rooms.
Appliances can be tricky to select. Sure stainless is cool, but can you get features you like without the up-charge? If you're planning to conceal them, Do you need a professional grade appliance and the changes in counter depth, venting and ductwork that are required? Is a dishwasher or refrigerator drawer a pro or a con? What refrigerator style works best for you and do you need to sacrifice interior space for an in-door water dispenser? New cooktops offer fabulous features so be sure to check out options like induction.
Counter top materials get better every year. Granite is NOT the luxury surface it used to be. Quartz has many PROS and few CONS over stone, and the appearance is often more beautiful. Solid surfaces have new styles and benefits and the costs are often more reasonable than stone. Integrating sinks into counters is a huge plus. Combining counter materials like Cynthia Ryan did in this modern space is stylish and functional.
Don't forget to add space for recycling and composting. Most areas of the country are actively participating in programs now, and more will make it mandatory for household food waste.
Good lighting is KEY in every kitchen. Know local codes for lighting and be smart in using good, correctly lamped (the right bulb) fixtures. Understand the value of LED, florescent and even incandescent lighting and which works best in specific places in your kitchen. Technology is your friend in lighting design and control, and a small investment enables a money savings and aesthetically fabulous long-term results. These Arts & Crafts fixtures are all warm LED and toe kick lighting accents the cabinetry around the peninsula serving as guide lights.
Know that there are many flooring options and learn which is best for you. Wood, porcelain, vinyl, cork, ceramic and even linoleum have PROS and CONS for performance, durability, cost to purchase, install and maintain. Wood is $8-40 per square foot installed but has performance and care drawbacks. Porcelain is $11-25 per square foot installed but colder underfoot. Cork is warm and $10-20 installed but does need occasional to coating. Linoleum has the best value at $4-8 installed, with beauty and design like never before, but seams are a must in large spaces.
Cabinetry is the usually the most expensive part of a remodel. Is wood better than laminate? Can you upgrade your look yet lower costs with veneers? Should use a custom fabricator or buy manufactured? Understand the finishes and what will be more durable for your type of use. Antiquing and distressing is beautiful but not always worth the splurge. Consider that open shelves may be easier and better than closed door cabinets. Be SURE that your interior fittings work for your lifestyle.
Plan a layout BEFORE you buy anything or demolish what you have. It may be better to change the position of your plumbing, gas lines and dedicated oven and fridge receptacles. It was key in this Coronado kitchen for me to relocate the gas line for ideal work flow and a balanced kitchen.
Don't start without having all of your products in hand. Finding a sink you love only to find that it's back-ordered for weeks can wreak havoc with your life and the rest of the kitchen project.
Showing posts with label Flooring. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Flooring. Show all posts
Mar 31, 2014
Feb 18, 2013
Enter here!
Does your entry say what you want about the rest of your home? This is one space, indoors and out, that sets the tone for the rest of your home. These are my top quick fixes for the inside space.
1) Flooring. It often creates nice separation, not to mention a practical way to keep the entry clean, to have a different floor surface in the entry. If your entry merges with the living area this is a perfect time to create separation. Even a small area rug, provides delineation from the rest of your home. Be sure to secure area rugs with pads or tape.
2) Stash space. It's smart to keep your entry neat. I recommend using a console, bench or other area where you can drop mail, keys and more. Affixing a small board to the wall and adding front legs, creates a perfect stash space in an apartment or condo where there is no obvious entry area. Using a small wall-hung shelf or a bookshelf to divide the entry from the rest of the space, work well for organization and separation. Once you've got the surface, you can add baskets, containers and bowls to collect what you drop, making a design statement as well as containing clutter.
3) Mirrors. Reflect light into the space by adding a mirror. A unique, framed mirror can make an artistic statement. It also serves as a place for guests to check themselves before entering, and you to take a last look before you go out!
4) Lighting. The best way to change the apparent space is with lighting. Brighten a narrow space with wall sconces, hang a chandelier to dramatize a grand space, bring a dark corner into play with up-lights, and if you can, hang picture lights over your art.
5) Artwork. Personalize your entry to reflects you and the style of your home. Whether that translates to a sculpture, a mobile, pottery, or wall art, an item you love can be worked into your entryway. This is a ideal time to use travel collectibles, your favorite ceramics, a fabric you love (framed or as a bench cover) to add color, texture, pattern and personalization.
6) Color. Bold or neutral, soft or dramatic, color sets the stage. In an entry, you can often find a space for a unique wall treatment. In this tiny apartment entry, a bold vase, stair runner and scarf hanging on a grand hook, say enough!
Jul 11, 2012
The benefits of using an interior designer.
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AFTER
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As the senior designer for Touch of Tradition, I see many people facing design dilemmas. I serve as a sounding board and provider of advice and this is what I've found to be true over the years: Interior designers add value in many ways than simply through aesthetics. When you make a decision to remodel or update your home, and bring in a designer, it WILL change your life in the best ways. Making an investment in your home should be done wisely. Even if you just spend a few hours of time with a professional interior designer, the results will be years of satisfaction and enjoyment of the spaces you change. With the plethora of materials, products, advertisements and samples available for home remodels and updates, the choices need to be made wisely. Rather than struggle through agonizing weeks with plans, surface materials, fabrics, dimensions and "what-if's", using a professional designer will bring timely satisfaction, creativity, and perfection to your project. Don't make a mistake! We will help solve your design and construction issues so everything runs smoothly.
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BEFORE
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I've rescued clients from bad furniture purchases, the "nightmare" they lived through with a bad contractor, the poor selections of floor coverings and paint colors that they made, and throwing their hands up at a poorly designed kitchen or bath. Don't waste your money or your time. We know codes, space-planning, color, products, technology and more. Our expertise is having the experience, resources and knowledge to recommend everything to finish and furnish your home. Keep what you can and update it, re-purpose, and re-new. With access to new products, technology, trends and creative ideas, your time with us will be well-spent.
When want to you love the results, meet your budget, and nail your style, the decision to hire a designer is always right. At Touch of Tradition, you can browse the fabric and furniture collections, purchase from what's in stock, or order a custom piece with the right dimensions and finish for your home. From July 1 to August 1, 2012, purchases from the shop or on-line will be supplemented with a gift certificate to use or give to someone special. Come by and bring your home decor and design questions.
Jul 28, 2011
Options for finishes when updating your home.
When remodeling or updating your home or apartment you look for products that do a great job and have major impact but reasonable costs. Here are several alternative finish materials to consider:
1) MDF versus wood. For trim moldings, baseboards, crown, casing, etc...solid wood is authentic and if you have an historic home and need to maintain history, use wood. Using MDF does not detract from the appearance or performance. The cost is significantly lower and the longevity - when primed and painted - is the same. Made without formaldehyde, there is no longer any off-gassing.
2) Plywood versus solid wood. The durability of plywood is well-known. Using it on floors, for built-ins (edge-banding required for a finished edge), and doors.
3) Salvage yards versus new. Builder's supply yards, Habitat for Humanity resale stores, and those in your local area, can be a great resource for bathroom vanities, flooring, doors, mantles and more. You can often find older pieces with lots of architectural detail that simply need refinishing.
4) Spray versus sandblasting glass. For cabinet doors, glass insets in doors, sidelights, etc...purchasing sandblasted glass for its obscurity is costly. Try Krylon's Frosted Glass Finish for a highly cost-effective alternative. Window film is the next option!
5) Wood versus granite counter top. Granite can cost up to $50 per square foot and is often not affordable. Butcher block and other solid species are significantly less expensive and provide a warm, custom finish.
6) Laminate versus solid surface counter. The look of granite without the cost is easily found with laminate counters. Many manufacturers offer laminate - Wilsonart and Formica among them - and the properties of the new laminate far exceed the previous generations of the materials. With a tremendous variety in color, texture and edges, you can find the style and the budget level that suits your project.
7) Concrete versus stone.When paving your exterior spaces, consider a concrete product instead of natural stone. The look is slightly different but the resulting durability and competitive cost are well worth the switch!
1) MDF versus wood. For trim moldings, baseboards, crown, casing, etc...solid wood is authentic and if you have an historic home and need to maintain history, use wood. Using MDF does not detract from the appearance or performance. The cost is significantly lower and the longevity - when primed and painted - is the same. Made without formaldehyde, there is no longer any off-gassing.
2) Plywood versus solid wood. The durability of plywood is well-known. Using it on floors, for built-ins (edge-banding required for a finished edge), and doors.
3) Salvage yards versus new. Builder's supply yards, Habitat for Humanity resale stores, and those in your local area, can be a great resource for bathroom vanities, flooring, doors, mantles and more. You can often find older pieces with lots of architectural detail that simply need refinishing.
4) Spray versus sandblasting glass. For cabinet doors, glass insets in doors, sidelights, etc...purchasing sandblasted glass for its obscurity is costly. Try Krylon's Frosted Glass Finish for a highly cost-effective alternative. Window film is the next option!
5) Wood versus granite counter top. Granite can cost up to $50 per square foot and is often not affordable. Butcher block and other solid species are significantly less expensive and provide a warm, custom finish.
6) Laminate versus solid surface counter. The look of granite without the cost is easily found with laminate counters. Many manufacturers offer laminate - Wilsonart and Formica among them - and the properties of the new laminate far exceed the previous generations of the materials. With a tremendous variety in color, texture and edges, you can find the style and the budget level that suits your project.
7) Concrete versus stone.When paving your exterior spaces, consider a concrete product instead of natural stone. The look is slightly different but the resulting durability and competitive cost are well worth the switch!
Jul 15, 2011
Why use an interior designer?
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AFTER
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![]() |
BEFORE
|
I've rescued clients from bad furniture purchases, the "nightmare" they lived through with a bad contractor, the poor selections of floor coverings and paint colors that they made, and throwing their hands up at a poorly designed kitchen or bath. Don't waste money. Don't waste time. In interior designer knows codes, space-planning, and had the resources and knowledge to recommend everything to finish and furnish your home. With access to new products and creative ideas, your time with a designer will be well-spent.
When want to you love the results, meet your budget, and nail your style, the decision to hire a designer is always right.
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Jul 12, 2011
Should you use stone or not?
When selecting surfaces for your floors, walls and counters, also consider the long-term cost of maintenance. With a huge variety of color and size options, the cost to purchase install your surface, as well as costs to maintain should be the determining factors for selection. Here is a brief guide to surfaces and their care:
Recommendation from the designer: Porcelain tile and Quartz counters are two of the most durable, easy care, competitive cost alternatives. For both, the selection of colors, ways to use, and overall performance are fantastic. The options in porcelain tile sizes and styles are ever-increasing, with trim tiles to finish edges. I prefer porcelain and quartz to their natural stone counterparts.
1) Granite: Porous, igneous stone. Tile and slab available. Must be sealed annually in baths, more often in kitchens. Stains and etches. Don't let oils or vinegars sit on surface too long. Great heat resistance. Be aware that some colors have radon. Not impervious to bacteria. Clean with stone cleaner to avoid removing sealer or dulling shine. Don't use acidic products or shine can be dulled.
2) Quartz: (Silestone, Cambria, Caesarstone, etc..) Stone-epoxy composite.Tile and slab available. Non-porous so no sealer required. Heat and stain resistant. High durability. Often embedded with antibacterial compound. Clean with almost any household cleaner. Some versions by Silestone are 'green'. Colors can be stone-like or unique in pattern and particulate. This bath uses a fossil-like quartz in a soft white.
3) Travertine-limestone-soapstone-marble-slate: These are all porous stone products that can be used on counters, floors and walls. Tile and slab available. They MUST be sealed often so water and products don't penetrate. All are stainable and prone to scratches. Soapstone has good heat resistance. Requires regular cleaning with stone cleaner or neutral non-abrasive cleaner. Products for ceramic tile may NOT be used on these stones. Soap scum is difficult to remove. Special products are available to help remove stains.
4) Porcelain: A subset of ceramic tile. Highly durable surface for floors, walls, and even counters. Generally through-body color with a glazed surface. No porosity. Clean with nearly any household cleaner. Recommend that you seal grout after installation for best stain resistance in high use areas. Patterns, colors, and sizes nearly limitless. Unique stone-like patterns available for more durable, easy care surface than real stone.
6) Solid surfaces (Corian, Corinthinan, Wilsonart, etc...) : Solid, manufactured with plastic or acrylic. Durable, non-porous, stain and bacteria resistant. Not heat resistant. Through-color and easy to buff scratches or make repairs. Often has integrated sink options. Seams are inconspicuous.
Apr 5, 2011
Choosing the right historic wood flooring.
If you're ready to update the worn flooring in your older home or desire an authentic old floor in your remodel, take a look at these species for a wonderful, traditional floor. When you purchase rustic floors milled from salvaged barns or old buildings, you obtain a floor with character and authenticity that isn't possible with new wood. Their existing stains, nail holes, marks and worm holes add to the charm and appeal of the wood. Here are some ideal wood species and characteristics to look for.
1) Heart Pine. Often reclaimed from old industrial buildings including closed cotton and wool mills in New England and Georgia. Some is recovered from river bottoms where the lumber sank while being floated from the forest to the mill. Heart pine has a natural blond to amber color and has a dense grain pattern with wide variation. Many pieces will have nail holes and nail stains. This will likely be the least costly species of wood per square foot.
2) Granary Oak. A price point higher than pine, is this beautiful red and white oak that typically comes from beams 'harvested' from factories, warehouses and barns. Found up and down the East Coast, the wood is very dense with tons of character. A strong grain is visible and the original saw marks and nail holes and scars are a testament to its history. Its unique patina can be maintained with pre-sanding and oil coatings.
3) Chestnut. Higher priced than the first two species, the wood from chestnut trees represented more than 1/4 of the hardwood in Eastern forests until the 1906 blight that nearly wiped them out. It was used extensively for home building and in commercial structures. Generally wormy, with a linear or arching grain, the wood ranges in color from deep blond to deep brown.
4) Chinese Elm. Costing about the same as chestnut, this species was used in China for homebuilding. It's available as flooring now that old buildings are being demolished and replaced with new construction. The grain is elaborate with deep chocolate brown highlights and bird's eye patterns on a butterscotch toned wood. Available in smooth or distressed finishes.
5) Strongbow. Another species priced in line with Chestnut, this oak is a rich brown and salvaged from apple cider vats in England. The grain is very dense and often retains yellow or copper coloration from the cider. You may have pieces with dark accents from the iron bands holding vats together and even small wedges hammered in between boards to stop leaks!
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| Heart Pine |
1) Heart Pine. Often reclaimed from old industrial buildings including closed cotton and wool mills in New England and Georgia. Some is recovered from river bottoms where the lumber sank while being floated from the forest to the mill. Heart pine has a natural blond to amber color and has a dense grain pattern with wide variation. Many pieces will have nail holes and nail stains. This will likely be the least costly species of wood per square foot.
![]() |
| Granary Oak |
2) Granary Oak. A price point higher than pine, is this beautiful red and white oak that typically comes from beams 'harvested' from factories, warehouses and barns. Found up and down the East Coast, the wood is very dense with tons of character. A strong grain is visible and the original saw marks and nail holes and scars are a testament to its history. Its unique patina can be maintained with pre-sanding and oil coatings.
![]() |
| Chestnut |
3) Chestnut. Higher priced than the first two species, the wood from chestnut trees represented more than 1/4 of the hardwood in Eastern forests until the 1906 blight that nearly wiped them out. It was used extensively for home building and in commercial structures. Generally wormy, with a linear or arching grain, the wood ranges in color from deep blond to deep brown.
![]() |
| Chinese Elm |
4) Chinese Elm. Costing about the same as chestnut, this species was used in China for homebuilding. It's available as flooring now that old buildings are being demolished and replaced with new construction. The grain is elaborate with deep chocolate brown highlights and bird's eye patterns on a butterscotch toned wood. Available in smooth or distressed finishes.
5) Strongbow. Another species priced in line with Chestnut, this oak is a rich brown and salvaged from apple cider vats in England. The grain is very dense and often retains yellow or copper coloration from the cider. You may have pieces with dark accents from the iron bands holding vats together and even small wedges hammered in between boards to stop leaks!
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