Ten weekend update tips.

Have two days and want  to make a design or decor change? Try one of these small ideas for a large impact.

Two hours and two cans of paints gave this accent wall a new look.

1) Paint.  The changes to a room from updating the walls are tremendous. Does that mean you need to do all of the walls...NO.  The addition of one accent wall, freshening up just the trim and doors, adding a faux effect up to chair rail height, can be done in hours. 

2) Lighting.  Update the outdated fixtures. (see prior blog posts for ideas.) If your budget allows, change the fixtures that have the most impact on the room...the dining chandelier, a kitchen sconce...and don't forget that new shades have a big impact.

Organize shelves for a clutter-free look.

3) Store-it.  Having a clutter-free space does give a sense of newness. Easy ways to reduce clutter are add wicker baskets or decorative paper boxes, b) hang or buy ready-made bookshelves, c) purchase a storage cube or chest that doubles as a seat or table.

4) Position. Change the layout of a room.  For the living room try moving the sofa to a new wall, arranging furniture horizontally versus vertically in the space, and swapping the position of tables and lamps. In the bedroom, move the bed to another wall or even angle it!

Adding sconces and a group of prints
 is a quick update.

5) Soft goods. Change the color and texture of pillows on your sofa or bed. Add a throw or take one away. Can you swap the bed room pillows and throws with those in the living room? If not, and there is no budget for new ones cover one face with a napkin and then tie on ribbon like a gift box.

6) Hardware.  Replace the hardware on kitchen cabinets and key pieces. Have a knob? Try a pull.  Changing from brass or chrome to a black finish will be dramatic. It's an easy change and you can bargain hunt big box stores for sets of pulls and knobs.












7) Swap it.  This applies to artwork, accessories, candles and even furniture - if you are ambitious. Moving art on the walls gives new perspective to a room...and of course, the art!  Create a group of accessories rather than spreading them around. Change candles..color and size. If you move furniture, try re-purposing pieces.

Adding glass & cabinet lighting in uppers was a quick update that transformed this kitchen.

8) Re-face. Give your appliances and/or cabinets a face-lift. Change the panels on dishwashers and refrigerators. Use appliance spray paint to re-color. Cut the center of some cabinet doors out and add glass.

9) Lighten up. Add light to your rooms. Using a mirror, reflect the light from a window to the interior. No window? Place a table lamp or even a picture light in front of the mirror. If you can, add lighting to the perimeter, under cabinets, inside armoires and bookcases... use low wattage LED ropes or strips.

Adding a plant and a picture made
this dresser perfect in a living room.

10) Add greens.  Like paint, plants and flowers have a huge impact on rooms.  Soften a hard corner with a tall plant or even curly willow in a large vase. Place fresh flowers on your kitchen counter, a living room table, or other noticeable place.  Hang a seasonal wreath on the wall, from a shelf or on an inside door. Can you use your own garden? Even better.

How to paint a room

When it's time to make a color change to your walls, or create and accent wall or design (see blog archives for How To Choose The Right Paint Color and Selecting the Right Paint Sheen), you can do it like a professional. Follow these tips and then stand back and admire the results.

Paint supplies: 

1) good quality paint brushes.  Get at least one angled sash brush 1-2" wide for trim

2) paint edger and refill pads

3) painters' tape (not masking tape)

4) paint rollers and a paint roller frame - select the right nap for your walls

5) an extension pole for the frame

6) paint trays - metal or plastic. 

7) drop cloths

8) Putty knife - I love the 5-in-one tool which has multiple uses in a painting project

9) Spackle compound to fill holes and cracks - or a tube of painters nail hole filler

10) Sandpaper to smooth 

11) Caulk and caulk gun to fill cracks between trim and walls

12) Wall cleaner  like TSP - tri-sodium phosphate

Some shortcuts you can use:  

If you have metal trays, you can use plastic liners and your tray stays clean. I don't recommend throwing liners away since it's not necessary to add to a landfill, so get the recyclable ones and rinse off the paint.  

Paint rollers and brushes can also be stored with paint on them as long as they are completed sealed in an airtight plastic bag in the refrigerator or freezer.

Control paint splatter with a paint roller shield. The right nap roller also resolves this issue.They simply snap onto the roller frame and partially cover the roller.

Preparation:

Preparation is a necessity that will make the overall project much easier and the results better. Place drop cloths on floors and furniture.  I love fabric cloths since they can be re-used nearly endlessly, and don't waste plastic or paper; I wash mine periodically and they have been a great investment for many other uses. Remove outlet and switch plate covers in the room. Use a clear zipper storage bag or lay them out on newspaper; I almost always paint them the wall color.  If the walls are very greasy or dirty, use TSP - with rubber gloves - and wash the walls following the manufacturer's directions. Rinse the walls with clear water. When the walls are dry and then it's time to tape, patch and prime as needed. If the new paint color is a stark contrast to the old paint you will use fewer coats of paint if you put on a coat of primer first. Have your paint store tint the standard white primer for you  to make it closer to your paint color. The walls will also need a coat of primer if your paint type is changing from a oil-based paint to latex (water-based) paint. If there are severe stains on the walls, a stain blocking primer like KILZ will be your best friend. No matter how many coats of paint that are put on the wall, many stains will continue bleeding through the paint unless a primer is applied. Tape off trim, windows, and other areas that will not be painted. Use blue tape meant for easy removal; masking tape is NOT the right product.

I start by making sure my paint is mixed well. I open windows for ventilation, although I highly recommend low odor and NO or LOW VOC (volatile organic compound) paints to eliminate or minimize any chemical off-gassing.  Then I pour paint for rollers into paint trays, and into a small bucket for cutting in. Cutting is is simply painting the areas that cannot be reached with the roller, such as next to the ceiling, trim and in the corners. I do it first since I find that I can 'smooth' the edges by rolling over them.  You don't need to cut in a wide area, just enough to fill where the roller cannot reach. Use a trim brush or the flat pad for that. 

When you're ready to start the walls, start rolling your roller back and forth on the ridged area of the paint tray to evenly distribute the paint on the roller. The roller should be thoroughly covered but not dripping with paint. Begin rolling the paint on the highest part of the wall in a "W" or "M" design and then keep rolling until the area is evenly filled in and the paint is distributed. I go all the way to my 'cut in' line for even coverage on the wall.  This process will be repeated each time the roller needs to be refilled with paint. Usually an area approximately 4' x 4' can be covered with each roller refill. Begin each new "W" beside the previous and then blend the paint edges together while still wet.

You will be pleasantly surprised how quickly a room can be completely. Allow the first coat of paint to dry for about three hours before applying the second coat of paint. The drying time for the paint will depend on the temperature and humidity. As the paint begins to dry, it will be much easier to see any areas that haven't been covered completely and it will be easier to determine how many coats of paint are needed.

Be sure to wait until the paint is dry before removing the drop cloths. Be cautious when removing the paper's tape as well. Good quality paint brushes and rollers are an investment worth taking care of and they will need to be washed thoroughly when the paint job is complete. There are special tools available to even help with the cleaning process of rollers and brushes. It's always a good idea to allow the paint at least a full day to dry before hanging pictures back on the walls.

Most common paint problems - and solutions.

If you are a do-it yourself painter, you may come across one of these paint problems -especially on exterior surfaces - and need to understand why it happened and how to deal with it.  

1) Alligatoring - Patterned crackling that looks like alligator skin. It means that the top coat of paint didn't bond to a smooth finish most often caused by applying a top coat over a primer or existing paint that was not the same (oil over latex) or that was still wet. If you apply too much paint per coat, this can happen. Natural aging in  extreme climates will also cause this to happen. You MUST scrape or sand to the base surface to overcome the problem. Once the surface is clean and dust-free use a primer and then paint that are meant to work together.


2) Blistering - Lifting of paint from surface in bubbles. Most often caused by painting in sunlight or on a surface that is too hot. Fresh paint exposed to moisture will also blister, as will paint on moist walls (showers, kitchens, laundry). First determine how it occurred  (a)if only the newest paint coat is blistered, it was caused by heat or (b)  if many layers of paint are affected and the base surface shows through than it was caused by moisture. For heat blisters, scrape or sand to the next coat or primer. Re-paint and be sure the surface does not get hot. For moisture blisters, scrape to the base surface, prime and then paint. Resolve the issue by adding ventilation fans and/or caulking appropriately.


3) Chalking- Formation of a fine powder on the surface of paint. All paints do chalk somewhat but severe chalking is caused by low quality paint, over thinning paint or spreading it too thin and not sealing or priming a porous surface.  To repair the problem you need to remove chalk by pressure washing or hand scrubbing. A wire brush or sanding may be needed in some cases. Once clean, if there is no more chalking, and the paint is in good shape, you can paint over it. If moderate chalk remains you should use a penetrating additive to the first coat of water-based paint to help it bond to the surface. If a lot of chalk remains, use an alkyd-based primer and then a high quality top coat.


4) Cracking and flaking - Hairline cracks and paint chips falling from the surface. Generally caused by thinning of paint or spreading it too thin. Unprimed wood surfaces crack easily. If you have painted in windy conditions, the paint may have dried to fast and not bonded to the surface, causing cracks. When painting over many layers of paint, cracking can occur when the older, lower layers lose flexibility and give out with temperature changes. For surface cracks, scrape, sand and re-paint. When cracking is down to the base surface you need to remove all paint and re-prime before using a high quality paint.





5) Peeling - loss of adhesion to the base surface. On wood surfaces, this occurs when wet wood expands and contracts causing the paint to roll at the edges. On metal surfaces it is likely improper surface prep and failure to prime or sand. For wood, you should determine the cause of moisture (water running down from a leaky roof,  ground moisture from irrigation or seeping up, too much exposure to moist air)and repair before repainting.  Scraping or sanding the loose paint is first, letting the surface dry thoroughly, then using a primer made for that surface. Use a high quality latex paint in two coats, to cover the primed surface.


6) Poor hiding - you can see the underlying surface through your paint. Generally caused by over thinning or overspreading paint, using a low quality paint, and not using poor quality rollers and brushes that don't apply paint well.  By using another coat of un-thinned paint, you can resolve this.  A roller with the correct nap for the surface will help the paint flow on smoothly.




7) Mildew - mold growing on the paint surface. Causes can be failure to prime bare wood surfaces, painting over existing mold, or excessive humidity and moisture problems. Ventilation fans and dehumidifiers can help resolve interior moisture issues. To be sure its a mildew problem, apply a few drops of bleach to the surface. If it bleaches out..it is likely mildew since stains and dirt will not be affected. Clean the surface with a mildew remover or a mixture of 1 quart liquid bleach + 3 quarts warm water + 1/4 c ammonia free liquid dishwasher detergent. Rinse thoroughly. Allow the surface to dry and prime and then paint. You can purchase paints with mildecides or add one to the primer coat if desired. 


8) Efflorescence - White deposits on masonry surfaces. The cause is often failure to remove previous salt deposits and painting before masonry (stucco, concrete, etc..) is fully cured. Removing the efflorescence with a stiff brush or power washer is first. Wash the surface with one part phosphoric acid + seven parts of water adding the ACID TO THE WATER.  Rinse and allow to dry, repeating until all efflorescence is gone. Seal the surface with a primer designed to hold back efflorescence and paint with a high quality acrylic finish.