Repurpose a piece of furniture this weekend!

Rather than tracking down a painted piece with just the right patina, you can create one yourself with a custom finish.  I advise clients on repurposing pieces all the time.  More often than not, they're simply tired of the piece an need a change.  From a nightstand to armoire, it's easy to paint, and if you add distressing, mistakes you might make add character!, Here's how:

Materials
Flat latex paint in contrasting shades - one will be the base coat and one the top coat
Primer
Crackle medium
Buckets
Paint brushes
Top coat of urethane or wax- optional


Start by lightly sanding your piece - unless you want those bumps and blemishes for character.  Prime it and let dry fully. I really do mean fully.   The first coat is key to having the rest adhere properly. Paint the first coat of color ..... that will be the one to show through your final color coat. This one is a deep rust color.  Let dry 24 hours.  If you want crackle, pour the crackle medium into a bucket and stir gently.  Using a clean brush, apply a thick layer but do not overwork it. Let this coat dry 1-2 hours (if you go too long the mixture will cure and the next coat will not crackle. Use another clean, dry brush for your topcoat - this one is a creamy beige. As it dries, the crackles appear.  For a worn look, you can lightly sand the edges of doors, drawers, and the box. I like to apply a light coat of Briwax rather than urethane, so I can enrich the sheen many times with ease.

  If you just want a bit of aging, skip the crackle medium and instead  rub wax along edges and places where wear might occur.  Continue with your top coat.  When the top is dry, rub off the paint in the areas you added wax with 0000 steel wool. That paint will come off nicely and the steel wool leaves it smooth.  I've experimented with other grades of steel wool and even sandpaper to give a more rustic appearance,  it's all done with  paint so you can always go back an make a change. 

To embellish with pattern, I often use stencils over the too cost and apply shellac to protect the final product.

Have fun!

S 

Update an old dresser yourself!

It's the time of year we all like to update and refresh...SPRING!  Me too. Rather than shopping and spending money on something new, I like to find pieces I have or thrift shop finds, and spend time getting precisely what I want. Here's my formula.  Give it a try and let me know if you like it!


Materials

1. Flat latex paint in contrasting shades - one will be the base coat and one the top coat
2. Primer
3. Crackle medium
4. Buckets
5. Paint brushes 
6. Top coat of urethane or wax- optional

Start by lightly sanding your piece - unless you want bumps and blemishes for character.  Prime it and let dry fully. Paint the first coat of color that will be the one to show through your final color coat. This one is a deep rust color.  Let dry 24 hours.  Pour the crackle medium into a bucket and stir gently.  Using a clean brush, apply a thick layer but do not overwork it. Let this coat dry 1-2 hours (if you go too long the mixture will cure and the next coat will not crackle. Use another clean, dry brush for your topcoat - this one is a creamy beige. As it dries, the crackles appear.  For a worn look, you can lightly sand the edges of doors, drawers, and the box. I like to apply a light coat of Briwax rather than urethane, so I can enrich the sheen many times with ease.

DIY Painting Tips For Cabinets & Furniture

At Touch of Tradition I love to help clients re-purpose furniture and salvage cabinets that are in great condition but need a face lift. Painting does the job very nicely.  With the right techniques and colors, I’ve taken dressers and made fabulous dining room storage units and transformed oak cabinets into sleek contemporary ones.  While this blog  has many ideas for painting, distressing and antiquing, a great finish starts with these tips. Call me for help, colors and ideas!

·     Use the best brush you can afford for a smooth finish. My favorite is a 2” angled brush from Purdy that gets into crevices, is wide enough to ‘lay off’ well, yet small enough to be manageable for almost any project.

·     Prepare your surface carefully. The right preparation is the difference between an blotchy finish and a professional looking job. While sanding does a great first job to remove color or stain, be sure you clean the surface of previously painted wood by washing it with soap and water or a solution of tri-sodium phosphate. Don’t skip the priming for both bare or pre-painted wood.

·     Use a paint conditioner for better adhesion, penetration, and flow of paint. I like Pentrol or Floetrol depending upon the type of paint I use. This will also make it easier for you to  smooth out brush marks.

·     The brand and type of paint does matter.  If you are doing antiquing, glazing, or other special finishes interior latex paint dries fast and sands well.  For exterior applications I use exterior paint. I prefer no and low VOC paints from Sherwin Williams since their color retention, application, and overall performance is top-notch.

·     Paint where you have enough space to work without a breeze. I prefer to lay cabinet doors and dresser doors drawers face up so I can evenly paint all of their surface area.  Painting flat is a great idea since gravity helps smooth out brush marks. A few saw horses with planks on top makes a great surface to walk around and even look under. I don’t use fans that blow directly on the surface or allow the breeze to deposit debris on my wet paint.  

Re-used materials make up these white cabinets which were

hand-finished to create a new kitchen for an historically significant home.